Switch wiring - Jet 8 X 18 mill

Re: Capacitor questions

Hi Jim The photos helped. If you look close you will see they reversed the Black and white in the two drawings. As I said it will not make a difference. The drawing on Page 18 shows the black (V) on top but those are the contacts away from the push buttons so so on page 19 that contact should be on the bottom. so the dummies didn't wire the switch on page 19 the same way the show on page 18. However the lathe motor (so far) on page 19 is the same as 18. I'm double checking everything but so far it looks good. But that's the spare switch. Now you will have to compare the connections on the spare to how the connections are made on the machine switch. Right now the most important thing is that the Capacitor on the Mill motor be connected to the white wire. I hope the wire colors are correct!!
There are yellow and green wires on that Mill Motor switch. Tell me the connections of the motor with respect to the green and yellow wires.

Frank

Frank,

On the active switch:

The black mill motor wire is connected to the same row as the yellow jumper wire

The white mill motor wire and the nms C wire are on the same row as what would be the green jumper wire (the wire color is actually blue as blue is substituted for green on the jumper wires on the active switch).


At this point, the only jumper wires that I cannot readily see are the ones on the back of the active switch. All the jumpers on the front of the active switch exactly match the spare switch as far as connecting identical terminals.

Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

Hi Frank,

Hope you don't think I was crying wolf, but the mill motor is fine. The mill motor is direct drive 120V single speed 1/4 HP motor. It directly drives a gearbox that is packed with grease (instead of oil bath). After it was freshly pack (by me) and the shop was on the cool side, it didn't want to go 1450 rpm. Now with the shop hot, it goes pretty readily to 1450 without jumping nms C and white. Mill motor white and mill nms C are on the same row.

The lathe is different thing. It is an oil bath (so not so temperature sensitive) and when the two buttons are pushed (to get high speed range) it definitely goes even slower that low speed and eventually the motor smokes. With what I know which is limited in this application, it seems like we have shown with the continuity tests that the cap does not seem to be connected by the switch currently in the lathe and the lathe is doing things characteristic of a motor without a capacitor in the circuit. Do you think that it is time for us to jumper the capacitor into the circuit? Would it be a pretty safe (avoiding any damage to switch or motor) thing to do?

I did the test you requested by starting the lathe in low speed forward and then in low speed reverse. In the highest speed (1400 rpm) with only a chuck on the spindle, it takes it a second or so to get up to speed in forward but it gets right up to speed in reverse. I tried it a few times with the same result. It is not much of a pause but it is clearly there. What you asked is exactly what it does (Does reverse get up to speed quickly and Forward have to kinda wind up?).

As to your questions regarding the ohm meter. My digital meter is set at 2K. When I touch the two leads, .000 is the reading I get and when neither is touching anything, 1. is the reading.

Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

Frank, I did switch the mill motor wires so now mill motor white and mill nms C are on the same row as the yellow jumper and mill motor black is on the row with the green (blue) jumper wire.

So, now for the lathe, I have four of the small based 120V bulbs. I am not exactly sure how this four light tester would be wired. I understand the concept of the tester mirroring the motor just not sure of the wiring of the four bulb tester. Please let me know and I'll get that together. Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

Frank, also on the ohm meter when set at 2K with neither probe touching, it reads 1. (with no zeros) and when the two probes make contact, it reads .000. Other settings on this meter in measuring ohms are 20M, 2M, 200K, 20K, 2K, 200, and a symbol. Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

I don't understand why 1. It's on a 2000 ohm range. what does it do on 20M or 20,000,000 ohms?

Frank

Frank,

20M=1 . (empty space between 1 and decimal) when open and 0.00 when closed

Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

OK Frank, I made the test lamps. I didn't test them due to not having the right ends, etc. They look like what was ordered anyway. I hooked them up and here are the results:

Low Fwd - only X1 lights
Low Rev - X1 and X2 light
Hi Fwd - V1 lights
Hi Rev - V1 and V2 light

Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

Hi Frank,

I have not tried the lathe in high speed reverse. I believe since it might smoke the motor, we were trying other things first.

On the last test with X1 now attached to X2 and V1 now attached to V2 here are the results:

Low Fwd - V1, V2, X2 at less than 1/2 intensity and X1 at full intensity
Low Rev - V1, V2 at less than 1/2 intensity and X2 at full intensity
Hi Fwd - V2 and X2 at less than 1/2 intensity and V1 at full intensity
Hi Rev - X2 at approx. 3/4 intensity and V2 at full intensity

Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

Frank,

"I assume if you don't give intensity the lamp is off?" - Yes

"When you removes X1 and connected to X2 both are now connected to X2 and nothing on X1 Switch connection the same with V1 it's on V2 and nothing on V1 switch connection." - Yes

Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

Frank,

Sorry but I didn't think about it until you asked the question but yes, the Z wire is still connected to the switch. It is on the back side of the switch in the lathe and the switch would need to come out so I can get to it but if it needs to be removed, just let me know and I'll disconnect it and do the tests again.

Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

Frank, what about what previously talked about when you said that the capacitor is not in the circuit when the lathe is operated in either forward range (low speed and high speed)? Jim
 
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