Paint Stripping to Become More Difficult?

I bought and tried to sand blast before stripping thinking it would kill two birds with one stone. But even sand blasting was super tedious and left the metal rough which left the powder coat finish rough :( Bead blasting left a better metal finish but was super slow. I’m constantly trying to find a way to do something as low cost as possible but in this and many cases I ended up shooting myself in the pocket book.

One of the big problems with the stripper is it’s very thin so the part needs to be dunked in it. So for wheels you’d need a big tank and lots of gallons of the stripper. My problem was my part was 15x16x3 and an open lattice(think like semi flat basket) I had a really hard time finding a tray that was the right size. Ended up with a covered cake pan that was close but I had to make a linear stretcher die for my planisher to stretch the bottom and sides of the pan so the part would fit. Nothing is ever straight forward.
 
C-Bag said:
I bought and tried to sand blast before stripping thinking it would kill two birds with one stone. But even sand blasting was super tedious and left the metal rough which left the powder coat finish rough :( Bead blasting left a better metal finish but was super slow. I’m constantly trying to find a way to do something as low cost as possible but in this and many cases I ended up shooting myself in the pocket book.

One of the big problems with the stripper is it’s very thin so the part needs to be dunked in it. So for wheels you’d need a big tank and lots of gallons of the stripper. My problem was my part was 15x16x3 and an open lattice(think like semi flat basket) I had a really hard time finding a tray that was the right size. Ended up with a covered cake pan that was close but I had to make a linear stretcher die for my planisher to stretch the bottom and sides of the pan so the part would fit. Nothing is ever straight forward.
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I researched the link you provided. They have three kinds of strippers. 9000, 9001, and 9002 that are for different purposes. It looks like the 9002 is a gel that you do not have to keep attending to. May want to check it out.
 
I know some people that have had bicycle frames powder coated, and I was thinking how the hell would you strip something like that, if you couldn't blast it - Maybe the gel stuff would be the answer for that
 
Can you add some words to that? Is that for powder coat or general stripping? What is it found in? Most importantly, does it have a prop 65 warning label. I will not use it if it does not.
 
I looked it up - THF is cited by all kinds of regulatory agencies, so therefor, it must be effective :~)
The Wiki says that it's a solvent for PVC and PLA plastics, BUT, isn't powder coating a polyester type material ?
Is it a solvent for that also ? It didn't say.
 
It's a plastics solvent that penetrates, similar to MeCl. It is found in solvent primer and pipe glue, like Christy's and sometimes Oatey.

I honestly don't know the solution to the dichloromethane dearth. Other than THF, I can't think of any other chems that work that way. Ketones don't even soften powder coat, the cured product is tough. Maybe enough soak time in hot methanol, but that sounds a bit ridiculous. The next idea would be to try wiping the coating off at or above cure temp.
 
pontiac428 said:
The next idea would be to try wiping the coating off at or above cure temp.
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I know very little about powder coating, but I thought I understood that there are 2 basic types of resins that can be used - Thermoplastic, and thermo-setting. The former, of course, can be re-melted and repaired, but the other type cannot be. Or, not at normal temps, anyway.
As said, I know zip about the technology, or especially the chemistry, involved here.......
 
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