I am restoring a South Bend 9 and work has stopped due to a stuck reversing gear. It loks like no maintenance was done since the machine was made in 1947. Everything but the final gear on the shaft has disassembled but that gear needs to be pressed off. A mechanic friend tried with his 20 ton press - dyidn't budge. I took it to a local machine shop and they stopped trying when the pressure was nearing a breaking point. I have to get this apart. It drives the entire gearbox and screw. I can't afford for it to fail. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I've been working on my lathe off and on over the past several weeks or months, but I've been hesitant to start a thread documenting my progress (or lack thereof!) for fear of embarrassing myself. I'm increasingly confident that I'm going to end up with a very precise lathe rather than a very large pile of cast iron dust and tears, so I'm finally willing to share my progress. After creating a new cross-slide for my lathe some time ago, I'd already spent a lot of time scraping in the compound and cross slide. But I decided to tackle a far larger project. I've taken Richard King's class twice now (and I'm about to help out with a third) but I know full well there is no way to really learn something without actually doing it (and even better, trying to explain what you're doing to others). So, despite my old Wards/Logan being in perfectly (well ... "acceptably") useable shape to begin with, I decided to scrape in the bed ways, headstock, saddle, and tailstock. I rationalized that...
Do you remember the time when most of the things were made here, they were durable, repairable and they would last for a very long time? Do you remember the time when shop and other hands-on trades training were part of the school curriculum? And you also probably remember when all this deteriorated, was bought and moved oversees and centralized by mega corporations... And this is great for few industries, but for a lot of small shop and inventors, makers and hobbyists, there is a real need in local distributed manufacturing. We are looking for your help to spread the word about our new initiative which we call "The Power of Small". What is The Power of Smallᵀᴹ ? • Small businesses doing big projects with low amounts of capital; • Office-desk sized machines making large parts - 100lbs and more; • On-shore, distributed manufacturing on a national or international scale; • Converting 100% waste plastics directly into viable finished goods - affordably and locally; • A...
Some people are not very familiar working with plastics. So we will continuously be adding useful info about plastics, here are few first ones we put together: Joining and Gluing ABS Painting parts with molded-in colors - a great partnership. Your Guide To ABS Drop us a note if you find this info useful. If you have more questions/topics you'd like us to cover in future posts, please respond to this thread or submit suggestion on our website using this form
I picked up a Clausing variable speed drill press from a Craigslist ad. I offered the guy $200.00 and he accepted. The drill press was in decent overall condition, and had a new motor on it. I disassembled the machine and cleaned up and painted everything. Mechanically, it was in very good condition, and the only real repair work I did was to straighten a few of the handle arms. One really nice feature is the table lift, which works great on that heavy table (btw: the table doesn't have a single drill mark in it!) This is my second Clausing variable speed drill press. The first one is in my metal shop, this one will be in my wood shop. Jack Fort Loramie, Ohio
Didn't get much of a chance to post this summer/fall so I'm playing catch-up. Tooling budget has been tight so I avoided going to sales. Freebies. Haven't plugged in the Servo yet, wiring is iffy and I want to tear it down and verify it's condition. Not even sure if it will fit the BP. Going to have to start a thread on it when I find out. A face plate (D1-4) for the Birmingham, and a stock stop for the mill. ... -=- The Auction where that South Bend Lathe that I posted about was at. I bid on this just for the Tach, didn't pay much attention to the Calipers until I picked it up. They are 8" Mitutoyo's! Also scored a lot of (3) dremels, all but one were toast. They was also a pack of router bits from HF that they included... $24 -=- Estate Sale where the owner had owned a hardware store. Snagged all this for $26. -=- Estate Sale where the Gent worked for AT&T. Most of the stuff has 'Bell System Property' on them. Came to ~$40. Honey treated, she had scored a ton of...
I’m having a problem on a BP mill, flycutting any metal, where it’s cutting heavier on one side , X axis, even after tramming the mill and indicating the vise. This is on subsequent passes after making the top flat. What could be the problem? Am I incorrectly tramming the table? Could the table be warped or the vise bed? Parallels? The table is not in great shape but I was able to tram it, so what could I be doing wrong? BP vari speed J head. R8 fly cutter. Cheap Chinese lathe tool. Parlec vise (not in good condition. Spindle run out? (Need to check). What can I look for? Thanks
I acquired an ancient Seneca Falls Star 30 Lathe. There's a separate thread on that story. One of the first problems that came up was that the compound angle adjust wouldn't lock. After asking around and fussing with it some, I discovered that the original locking set screw had broken in the hole. I extracted the remnants, chased the threads with a bottoming tap, dropped a new screw in and got it to lock. I thought. I came into some windfall money and used it to buy a new Shars AXA QCTP. After machining the nut to fit the slot on my compound, I installed it and as I was tightening the nut on the QCTP, the compound moved. Tightened the set screw until I was worried about ripping the threads out of the casting and it STILL moved. What the...??? Got to looking at it a little more closely and figured out that what I thought was the post it rotates on was actually MORE of the original set screw! Fiddled around trying to fish it out of there with a pick and did get it to turn...
Visit my friend in his workshop and he wanted to sell his Russian mill from 1980 12 Metric ton of russian steel Technical data: Technical data: - Control: pushbutton from the suspended desktop - cutting diameter: up to 315 mm - Main engine power: 13 kW - 18-speed gearbox: 4.1 kW - The ability to turn the head: + -30 - vertical travel: 125-750 mm - cross-section: 10-1500 mm - longitudinal motion: 355-985 mm - Work desk table: 1600x630 - machine dimensions (length x width x height): 3205x4140x3120 mm
This site has been posted a couple of times in other threads but mostly just for a specific machine. Thought I'd post it with a title that will show up easily in a site search. Rather a varied range of info, mostly lathes with some other cool stuff. http://pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/docs/ This one was neat, "hitchcocks machine tool list jan 1906": http://pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/docs/catalogs/hitchcocks-machine-tool-list-jan-1906.pdf Shows machines and accessories from said year. There's a couple in there I'd sure like to score.
I’ll start by qualifying that I am a general contractor with over 30 years of experience in home building and renovation. I’m well versed in household electrical so I’m good on means, methods, codes and safety. In the spring of next year I’m having a local contractor insulate and drywall my new (to me) shop at our Oregon property. The shop is 28’ x 32’. It currently has a subpanel feed by a 60 amp breaker with #4 wire. There are 110v convenience outlets every 4’ around the perimeter walls about 4’ off the floor. These are divided on three separate 20 amp breakers. I need to get the wiring sorted out before finishing the interior can begin and I’m waffling about the best way to proceed. My current plan is to run a feeder to another subpanel on the opposite side of the shop to feed the circuits on that side which would cut down the amount of wire needed to be run from one location. All the 220v circuits would be surface run in conduit after the walls are finished. I just don’t...
I bought a RF-45 that had been CNCed , and I put it back to manual use. After milling some slots of a motor mount, I'm getting little tired of the drama. The combination of a powerful motor and a gearhead exposes the center wear on the X-axis . No belts to slip. I've adjusted the gib so it's tight, almost too tight at the ends. I bought it used with a lathe for good deal. Since this is not a Bridgeport, I won't end up with a $20,000 machine, even if I get it perfect. Nor could I afford the tooling to arrive at that point. Nor am I looking for perfection, it's a used mill/drill for heaven's sake .I'm a retired miilwright, on a budget, but not unhandy. So my question , what tools can get away with and where to find them. I have a cheap BusyBee (Canadian Grizzly) granite 12x18 surfaceplate used for layout and a couple of babbit bearing scrapers.
I just finished 4 stand-offs for a vintage auto luggage rack. I sanded them to 500 grit, then polished with Flitz on the lathe, but they don't have the mirror sheen I'm looking for. I'm wondering if getting a Harbor Freight tumbler would be a way to get the desired finish? If so, what series of media should I use? This is what I have: This what I want them to look like: Thanks in advance! Evan
Is there a formula for figuring out the major diameter of a custom thread? For example: I have a tube that is 1.384 inside diameter and I internal thread it 32 TPI. How do I determine what size to turn the OD of the male part prior to threading it?
Hello all. I need to turn into a location about 14mm long with a shoulder each end that prevents me using triangular or diamond shaped inserts. The material is Rockwell hardness of around 60 so normal tool steel won't do the job otherwise I could grind up something suitable. Specifically it is a running surface for needle rollers and the shoulder at each end is to contain the rollers. What can I use please? What about a carbide parting insert? Thanks Doug
I need to mill a 7º and 11º angle on the base of a round stand-off. While I could tilt the head of my mill, I'd rather not have to re-tram. What are other ways to hold a round piece in a vise at an angle for milling? This is what I have: This is what I need: Thanks in advance.
I need to take an Al rod and turn it down to make two pieces about 100 thousandths diameter by 350 thousandths long. Tolerances need to be no better than 5 thousandths or so, that part's easy. I have some ~0.5" rod stock to start with. I'm guessing that if I just turn it down to that diameter it will flex quite a lot and I'll have some problems before I even get to 100 thousandths. Any advice on the best approach on this before I create a lot of scrap? Or, am I worrying about nothing, it will be easy, and I should quite typing and just get on with it?
I'm turning a set of stand-offs for a vintage automotive luggage rack out of 303 SS. The stand-offs are 1.25" Diameter turned down to 0.625" diameter. I'm using an AXA-16 carbide holder with Terra Carbide 22-100-047 | TPG321 APC5T 60° Coated Triangle / Indexable Carbide Turning Insert. I'm getting decent results, but things seem happiest taking a 0.020" deep cut at the slowest turning and feed speed on my Logan lathe. I've heard that carbide likes to take a deep cut, so I tried deeper and faster cuts, but it just generates a lot of smoke and heat and long stringy chips. At the slower shallower cuts, I alternate between getting C-shaped chips and 2-4 inch strings. Should I just go with what seems to work? I tried steel cutting fluid and the blue water-based soap-like lube (Anchor Lube?)--both stunk to high heaven. Without any lube and cutting slowly with a 0.020" depth of cut things get warm but don't stink.
I bought some goodies from a guy yesterday and one thing I may go back for is a bucket of Morse taper drill bits. I have no idea at this point which taper and just from a quick look I think they were mostly larger sizes, probably from a local factory. Is there a market for these?
Last sunday i visited a tool/flea market and bought this lawn mower engine. You can read the label, is a Italian copy of 3,5 hp tecumseh engine, i've changed the oil, checked it has strong spark, new spark plug fresh gasoline, and then i tryed and start it, it kicks back, also i heard couple of loud pops from the exhaust, the flywheel is aluminium and it doesn't have blade, i've heard on some engine blade acts like a flywheel is this the case here and can i turn this engine and use it i vertical configuration without taking it apart ?
Greets to all! Have been using the mill off and on for some time now - VERY nice piece 'o kit (as the Brits would say). Recently I've been having an odd issue: when I tighten the X-axis locking screw (front of table) the Y-Axis locks up as well! Just took out all the X-Y gibs, cleaned and stoned, returned - Problem still persists. I would think with one axis locked, the other should move freely. Not quite - I can lock Y-axis (side, under table) and X still moves fine. But if I tighten the X-axis lock (front) BOTH axis's lock up! Any ideas what might be going on?
I know these questions come up but I need some input. So far I have the Bridgeport mill on a VFD. Now I need to power the lathe and the surface grinder. The question is to keep going VFD or to buy a rotary phase converter. Literature says I need a 15hp VFD for a 7.5hp lathe. I was hoping to get a 10hp RPC and use the existing 40amp circuit its on. If I go RPC, I need to pull another wire and it would be worth it to run a 3phase panel and distribute power. OR I can just buy 2 more VFD's. Total price for VFD's (Im running 2 chinese ones now) its about $500. The RPC is $900 (10hp...$1300 15hp) and need a panel and misc electrical supplies. If I run VFD's, I can skip the new power pull, panel, etc. I actually may be able to get away with a single VFD for both the lathe and the surface grinder because they are both 7.5hp units. Any input?
I have no formal training and everything I have learned about machining has come from members here, you tube, and trial and error. With that being said, which program would you recommend someone like me? I have never used any type of design software but it would be nice to print out a set of prints vs drawing them.
If you had to start over, to replace your equipment and power/hand tools. How much money would it take? I need to come up with a budget. Excluding the lathe and mill, I think at least $25,000 for hand and power tools and another $7,500 for lathe/milling accessories. New lathe and mill, $18,000. Welding and plasma, $6,500 What say you?
We post at least 1 short video a week, help us with topics that you might like us to cover on YouTube channel. Plastics are more flexible than metals or wood How to Square a Plastic Block Machining plastics - long and strong chips of material How to clamp a plastic block into a vise
The Plasti-Block YouTube Channel Is Now Live! Following a number of inquiries about our plastics including what type to choose and how to use them, we decided it would be beneficial to create an information hub from which we can share our knowledge and experience with you. We have chosen to start a YouTube channel as videos are an excellent way to show, in detail, the many aspects of machining plastics that you may not have previously known or considered. While text and pictures have their own advantages, videos allow you to focus on the nuances in a way that these other forms cannot accurately convey. Our YouTube channel is aimed at everyone. We uploaded first 4 very short and very basic videos. The plan is to create videos from how-to and tutorials to safety and best practices. We aim to add video content to our channel on a weekly basis. I really hope that you’d be interested to give us a feedback/suggestions/provocations for topics about machining plastic, as it is vital in...
I recently bought a L-W Dividing Head. It came with three dividing plates and a tail stock. It was missing the auxiliary shaft assembly and the change gears. My question is, does anyone know what the pitch and pressure angle of the change gears are? I would like try to make a set of change gears. I found a single change gear for a L-W on Ebay but the description of the tooth count and the outside diameter works out roughly to 11 dp? This doesn't sound quite right to me. mhooper
Forgive me if parts of this do not make sense, as I am not sure how to even ask what I want. I wish to learn how to calculate partial circles cut into an object. Example: If I have a round knob already, and I want to cut in shallow radii around the circumference, like above, I need to be able to calculate the width of the circle for a given depth of that circle, or once I know the width I want to cut, what diameter cutter will I need to use to get that width while the depth is less than the radius. In the pic, the radii are very shallow, and definitely not half of the diameter of the circle that radius would be part of. Yes, I realize the pictured knob is not cut, but cast in that shape. I am thinking that once I have the circumference measurement of my knob, I then would split it into sections, like above, there would be 6 notches and peaks. I want wanted all of them to be equal width, with a circumference of 3.141 (for a 2" diameter knob), I would divide by 12, which gives me...
I purchased a suburban master grind awhile back and unfortunately it didn't come with the v block assembly. I ended up purchasing the v block from suburban and it states when buying that finally fitment is necessary. Okay so I mounted a pin gauge in the V block and did some measuring. Of course every measurement I take has like .0002 variance. I am pretty new to this but from my understanding this thing needs to be perfectly centered within the master grind or whatever you grind will be off. My questions are am I measuring this the correct way. The V block needs the sides ground only so that's it's centered in the groove of the face of the master grind. The height of block is adjusted by slots on block. Here's my setup for measuring. Tenths indicator pin lightly clamped in V and taking measurements from the sides. My problem is the first picture I have .0003 difference from left to right,how do I know if pin is placed correctly in V. I've read that the hold down is touchy when...
When using a boring bar, the chips are pushed into the bore. I’m curious what you do to keep chips out of the scroll on a 3 jaw. I just cleaned it, now I have to do it again. (On the other site someone would say, “don’t use a 3 jaw”) Ball of foil stuffed into the bore? I appreciate your ideas. Jeff
I bought a vise with no maker mark and it was missing jaws. It is 3 1/2" and the mounting holes are 2 1/4" on center. Can't seem to find anything online. I guess I could make some but wouldn't I want to have them hardened? Anyone know if a source for pre-made jaws?