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Working With Plastics

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Some people are not very familiar working with plastics. So we will continuously be adding useful info about plastics, here are few first ones we put together: Joining and Gluing ABS Painting parts with molded-in colors - a great partnership. Your Guide To ABS Drop us a note if you find this info useful. If you have more questions/topics you'd like us to cover in future posts, please respond to this thread or submit suggestion on our website using this form
The Power of Smallᵀᴹ
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Do you remember the time when most of the things were made here, they were durable, repairable and they would last for a very long time? Do you remember the time when shop and other hands-on trades training were part of the school curriculum? And you also probably remember when all this deteriorated, was bought and moved oversees and centralized by mega corporations... And this is great for few industries, but for a lot of small shop and inventors, makers and hobbyists, there is a real need in local distributed manufacturing. We are looking for your help to spread the word about our new initiative which we call "The Power of Small". What is The Power of Smallᵀᴹ ? • Small businesses doing big projects with low amounts of capital; • Office-desk sized machines making large parts - 100lbs and more; • On-shore, distributed manufacturing on a national or international scale; • Converting 100% waste plastics directly into viable finished goods - affordably and locally; • A...

Clausing 1771 Drill Press Restoration

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I picked up a Clausing variable speed drill press from a Craigslist ad. I offered the guy $200.00 and he accepted. The drill press was in decent overall condition, and had a new motor on it. I disassembled the machine and cleaned up and painted everything. Mechanically, it was in very good condition, and the only real repair work I did was to straighten a few of the handle arms. One really nice feature is the table lift, which works great on that heavy table (btw: the table doesn't have a single drill mark in it!) This is my second Clausing variable speed drill press. The first one is in my metal shop, this one will be in my wood shop. Jack Fort Loramie, Ohio
Rebuilding the head on a South Bend 4219 1956 mill
VN Finally Got A Slotter Attachment
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Finally picked up a slotter attachment that I have been looking for. Probably paid a bit much, but it's practically new. Stripped it and cleaned out the old gunk. Back together already, quickest rebuild yet. Missing one oil cap and the arbor, but I have a print for the arbor. All I did was clean it. Jason
Cartridge Calibration Press
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Hello, My entire cartridge gauge design where you go from one end of Die to another, so the calibration is complete. The machine has some oxidized parts and stems with hard chrome; The Dies were bought from bought. Hope you like it !

PM30 Milling Machine Stand

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Building a bench for my soon to arrive Precision Matthews PM30MV. Planning to roll an old craftsmen tool chest underneath. Not totally sure on the bench surface yet. A side note, this is a bad time to purchase steel!! $$$ A sketch: Steel is cut, cleaned and de-burred: Tacking together the front and back sections: Now I need to figure out how to attach the cross members while keeping things square. My workbench isn’t big enough and my floor is far from flat.

Just a few things I've picked up over my 2-year Machining Studies

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Creating this thread to share some manual mill/CNC stuff I've picked up so far at work/school. Some nice little charts here if you want to print them out. The center drill sizes are basically what I program the controls for depth for each size, because it's tricky finding one that works I've jotted ones that do here. Also the SFM is a bit different, but if you look at the bottom guide it will show you how to use them. This is for milling only. For drilling, I usually use a different chart that I found to be better. Will upload it soon. Let me know if you need clarification on anything. I wanted to use this as a spot for you all to learn and for backup for my notes. MOST OF THIS IS FOR THE MILLING MACHINE!

Spindle Stop

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My version of a spindle stop for my PM-1440GT lathe with 2" spindle bore. I have been using this stop for a while. Made from Delrin, a 3/* aluminum rod and 3/16" & 1/4" drill rod at the ends. It is held in place by one of the outboard spider setscrews and adjusted with a 1/4-20 setscrew. Something I made up quickly for a job. Works okay but a bit of a pain to quickly install and adjust. I decided to make one that was tool-less to install and adjust. The adapter is made from 2-1/4" 1018 cold rolled steel. The adapter is held in place by a pin that is engaged by a 1/4-20 adjustable handle. Same for the stop rod lock. The stop rod and lock pins are made from O-1 drill rod. Cad Model showing how pins are engaged. Truing up the stock in the 3-jaw prior to facing and drilling. Stock supported in the steady for facing and drilling. I would have done the turning in the steady but I discovered it would not open more than 2" so I had to remove the collar the holds the top...

Air power file conversion to 12 volt.

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I bought an air belt grinder a while back which proved a little too air hungry for my compressor, so, rather than buy a bigger compressor I converted it to run off 12 volts. The motor came from ebay as a 12 volt cordless drill motor spinning at 5000 rpm. I removed the air motor and as luck had it the 12 volt motor fitted perfectly in the grinder housing. I also turned up a 12 mm bush with a 3mm hole to fit over the motor's shaft and shrunk fit that into the belt drum, constructed a handle from 22 mm tube and inserted a switch in it. To protect the motor I turned down a PVC pip fitting and heat shrunk it over the motor leaving an air gap to coincide with the motors vents, Sikaflexed an end cap in place and cut some grooves under the cover to aid cooling. The grinder works great and is certainly better than forking out $300 for a Makita belt grinder. some pics and a video:

Squareness comparator/surface guage

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Started this a while ago, keeps getting out on the back burner due to shop problems and break downs. Still working on my lathe DC drive system that failed... It's based on Stefan Gotteswinter's project. Did a bunch more mill work last night on the top slide piece. And my progress so far. To use as a surface guage, I can just spin the top slide around to the back and extend the DTI off the back for about 4" of reach. Not a huge amount of surface covered, but more than I have right now, which is nothing, and my surface plate is small. I figured with the addition of the surface grinder, and my hopes of making lapping plates, I really need a way to measure squareness and surfaces. It would be nice to afford a nice reference standard tho. I may just have to rely on comparative squaring. Checking both sides of something and splitting the difference.

10 cylinder Crankshaft

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I’ve been wanting to make an interesting form that used eccentric turning. I wanted to make it as long as feasible on my hobby machines and I would display it vertically. I did some research on cams and got to thinking that they are too solid of a piece. That led me to crankshafts that were much more “airy”, and certainly more difficult to make. I remembered seeing a thread once on one of the model engine sites where a guy made a V-12 crank and he made a special jig to help turn it. I suppose there are many ways to do this but they would involve a lot of dial indicator work setting up each crank pins off-set. The fixture this guy made was a big block of steel that was turned and bored with the crank throw dimension machined into it so it eliminated the individual set-ups. I don’t know if it was his idea, or if it was commonly used amongst the model motor heads. There were no plans, instructions or dimensions, so all I had to go on was a couple of photos he posted. They didn’t...

Thor's Meat Tenderizer

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Machined this last weekend.

Ellis Saw Vise Clamp

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My Ellis band saw has a quick acting vise for holding the stock in place while cutting. The vise can not be located real close to the blade and can cause a clamping issue when trying to cut really short pieces even shorter. So, here is my solution. I made an adjustable clamp. Seems to work pretty well. And yeah I know, it still needs some paint.

Indexing plate!

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-20F this morning again...........:cool: This morning's project was to finish up on an indexing plate that I had started the day before. Not that I really needed a project but wanted to test out the bolt circle feature on my Mitutoyo digital readout. As luck would have it I had a steel disc or the right thickness but a little larger in diameter than the original indexing plates. I picked 40,44, 48, 50, 55, and 60 divisions but maybe using some prime numbers would have been better, not sure at this point. Anyway, I still have the flip side to drill out. This is not a difficult process but rather a time consuming and requires one to be careful not to make an error in drilling. I used a center drill for the whole process for the sake of rigidity. It was quite a bit of work so had to show it off to all you HM folks. At least now I know that I can make pretty much custom make any indexing plate I desire. Here's a couple photos of the results:

DIY chamber headspace gauge.

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I made a simple headspace gauge for installing a 45 conversion barrel to a Mauser action. Final length was done by stoning a few tenths off.

MT3 1" Slitting Saw Arbor

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i started construction on a MT3 slitting saw arbor from materials in the shop. here is the slug of what i believe to be 12L14 mild steel. it was unmarked, but acted like 12L14 i have machined before. it's very nice to turn. the slug was a fraction over 1" in diameter and 7" long. i centerdrilled both ends. i turned the diameter on both ends down to .950". one for the drive dog, the other to make the taper turning operation quicker then i added the drive dog and offset the tailstock to a total indicated offset of .176" and started cutting the taper and after taking some passes, the arbor partially emerged from the rod! i drilled & tapped the drawbar end to 3/8"-16 tpi x 1.250" depth and polished it up a bit more to fit into the MT3 test socket. and here is the blank, pictured next to a MT2 blank i did the day before. in the next episode... i turn the cutter seat! i'll do that inserted into the spindle of my Hercus ARH922. Same Bat Time, Same Bat Channel!!!

Quick & Dirty Worm Wheel making

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I was trying to make a substantial speed reduction to a small, but very powerful 230 Watt motor to drive a small auger. The motor specs are impressive Mabuchi Motor 12v Rs-775sf 230w 19500 rpm Model : RS-775 18V Weight : 11.9 oz Operating v : 6v - 20v Length of motor : 2.81 in Nominal v : 18v Diameter (with flux ring) : 1.85 in No Load RPM : 19500 Diameter (no flux ring) / Width Across Flat : 1.66 in No Load A : 2.7A Shaft Diameter : 0.197 in Stall Torque : 166.65 oz-in Shaft Length : 0.3 in Stall Current : 130A Mounting Screws (2) : M4 Kt : oz-in/A Kv : rpm/V Efficiency : 78% RPM - Peak Eff : 17040 Torque - Peak Eff : 21.00 oz-in/A Current - Peak Eff : 18.7A Currently, in a similar application, I use for this purpose the old plastic gearbox from “Gaucho Grande” jeep my kids had more than a decade ago. It gives a reduction 134:1 so each motor...

homemade grinder tool rest

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how i build my homemade tool rest ( video witch portuguese audio) greetings from Brazil

Shop build beast of a chop saw

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I started this build couple of months ago thinking i'll finish it in a week or two so i continued writing about it in the question & answer section where i had couple of questions, but because is drag on for so long i've decided to move it in the project section.

Old gasoline generator repairs

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Couple of weeks ago i bought two small generators they both "run" the smaller one needed an carb cleaning and now runs good, the Bosch uses an Tecumseh HS40 engine which has a blown head gasket, and only runs for couple of seconds and dies, the generator works so is worth repairing it.

PM1440GT Lathe work with a Dorian CXA Quick Change Toolpost ?

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My Precision Matthews PM1440GT lathe is arriving via UPS LTL Freight tomorrow 01/25/2018. I have two basic questions relative to other PM1440GT Lathe owners. 1) Has anyone used the Dorian CXA Quick Change Toolpost , Model # SDN35CXA on the PM1440GT ? I want to be able to use the larger 3/4" tooling over the 5/8" tooling on the Dorian BXA Quick Change Toolpost. 2) Has anyone used the Hitachi WJ200 VFD on the 3 HP 3phase motor on the PM1440GT ? If so , is it possible to get the Hitachi WJ200 VFD parameters that were used for the PM1440GT ? Appreciate any feedback and will post photos soon ...
DIY steady rest spider.
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My steady rest spider turned into a bigger project because the roller shafts do not retract to utilize the diameter of the steady rest. I made new shafts from O1 tool steel with bronze tips. The spider is made from a 2.5” diameter scrap of some grade of steel, it machined nicely. I will thread for the 8 spider screws m10x1.5. First time using my rotary table, I supported the work directly under the bottom of the spider body because of the lack of rigidity of the rotary table mounting. I need to build a right angle mounting plate and look into rotary table tail stocks.
KO-Lee Cutter/Grinder Revamp
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Perhaps you've seen this from other photos... It's a KO-Lee cutter grinder. It's a good platform and the table and all mechanisms are in excellent condition. I don't think this machine was used much in it's lifetime as there are very few signs of wear (hardly any at all really). The motor is the weak link. The bearings are going bad and vibration can be felt in the short shaft. The long shaft is OK. The seller told me about this when I got it. I'm guessing someone bumped a wheel really hard and damaged the bearing on that side. Anyhow, I once had a B&S #2 surface grinder but, sold it a few years ago. It needed too much work. It took up too much space, and I rarely worked on parts more than a few inches in size. Also, the things I make do not need sub-ten-thou tolerances. I've used the KO a couple times to do some grinding on small parts within a half-thou and it works out fine. My plan when I sold the B&S was to modify the KO-Lee to handle the simple grinding tasks...

4th axis servo controlled rotary table build

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Hi everyone, I am getting ready to build a 4th axis for my CNC mill. I should be getting the rotary table in the mail in about a week. I will be posting pictures as I go along :). The rotary table is one from eBay. It is of the 8" variety. I believe the brand is CME. The servo and drive is from Leadshine and is 400w. Here are a couple pictures of the servo and drive:

Vfd's Rpc's And 3 Phase Power At Home

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I see a TON of questions on RPC's and VFD's on here and I figured I would type out a knowledge base for what they are and how they apply to the home shop. We as machinists work with industrial equipment at home. It's obvious if you are reading this that you know that industrial stuff is typically 3 phase and you want it to run in your home shop where there is no 3 phase power. For a long time there was little option for this except the rotary phase converter or RPC for short. There are static converters. And for a single machine, in SOME instances, they are a viable option. But for a home machinist, we know a few things going into our hobby. The first is that no matter what we have, we will want to upgrade it, and there are always more machines to buy space and money permitting. So an RPC is a very viable option for running multiple machines at once, providing power to a dedicated 3 phase panel that all machines are connected to. As of posting this, I have 3phase welders...
VN Finally Got A Slotter Attachment
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Finally picked up a slotter attachment that I have been looking for. Probably paid a bit much, but it's practically new. Stripped it and cleaned out the old gunk. Back together already, quickest rebuild yet. Missing one oil cap and the arbor, but I have a print for the arbor. All I did was clean it. Jason
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